Rescue Ink Foundation

Want a Pet? Rescue One!

Sometimes new additions fall into our laps. But in other cases, we can't wait for serendipity, and are eager to begin the search for a new household companion. Below, in descending order, are the best avenues for obtaining furry, or not-so-furry, friends.

First choice: Rescue

As its name says pretty clearly, Rescue Ink is about rescuing animals in need. And before you go out and buy a puppy, kitten, bird or any other animal, you should seriously think about adopting one from a shelter or rescue group.

Rescued animals aren't "broken" or "inferior": If anything, oftentimes it's their former owners who were. Rescued animals have limitless reservoirs of love and affection to give the person who offers them a forever home. Sure, some might require time and patience to forget the experiences that they have had at the hands of loser abusers. But unlike people, animals don't hold grudges. They don't stand in the way of their own healing. And they don't judge. They live in the moment, in the here and now, not in the past or the future.

Rescue animals also have advantages: While puppies and kittens are certainly available at shelters, many adolescent and adults animals find their way there once their "newness" has worn off. Puppies and kittens are cute but they are a lot of work. The average puppy, for example, only has one hour of bladder control for every month of age. That means that a 2-month-old puppy needs to go out every two hours. Do you have that kind of time and patience? And once housebreaking is behind you, there's the gnawed furniture and destuffed pillows of adolescence to deal with. Adult rescue dogs are often obedience trained and housebroken. And you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you have given a home to an animal that was in dire need of one.

If you have your heart set on a purebred dog or cat, that doesn't mean you have to go to a breeder. An estimated 25 percent of shelter dogs are purebreds. Nearly every breed has a national and/or regional rescue group that can help you determine if the breed is right for you, and then help you adopt a new forever friend. Purebred cats also find their way into shelters, and breed-specific rescues exist for them, too.

If you want a more exotic pet, they have their own rescue groups, too. Tortoises, rabbits, ferrets, chinchillas... the list goes on and on. Google the species of animal and the word "rescue", and you will find lots of possibilities. Don't be constrained by geography, either: Many rescuers have wide-ranging networks of transports who are willing to put in the miles if it means an animal will get a forever home.

And while it's cool to want to save an animal, remember that you still need to keep your lifestyle and family needs in mind before adding any new animal to your household. If you are older and perhaps less active, opt for a cat or smaller dog. If you have children, make sure you select a dog whose breed and whose individual temperament is well suited to tolerating youngsters. If you are thinking about other species of animals, remember that some, such as hamsters, are nocturnal, and may be just gearing up for fun and frolic when you're ready to turn out the lights.

For potential dog owners, it's a good idea to hire a trainer or dog behaviorist to accompany you to the shelter to help make your choice. These professionals are good judges of canine body language, and they know the exercise and time requirements of various breeds. Their input in making a choice of dog is often well worth the cost of a consultation fee.

If you obtain your animal through a private rescue group, they will likely already have a good sense of how the animal behaves and the ideal home for him. As a bonus, the animal might already be living in a foster home, and you can get a report from the foster family about how well he does in the house, and what his strengths and weaknesses are.

If you work all day and have little spare time to spend training and socializing, get some fish.

All About Anesthesia

Many dog owners reflexively have their dogs put under anesthesia for teeth cleanings, and even minor procedures such as nail trimming.

Thanks to improved drugs and technology, anesthesia-related mortality rates are very low. But there is still a risk to putting your dog under: In a 1998 anesthesia study, 12 percent of canines had complications (including low blood pressure and dysrhythmias), and .43 percent died. Age and health are definite risk factors: In another 1990 study, one out of 679 healthy dogs and cats died under anesthesia, compared to one out of 31 that had some type of disease.

When it comes to anesthesia, communication with your doctor is paramount for easing your mind and assuring as good an outcome as possible for your dog. Practices vary from vet to vet, so be sure to ask questionsbefore your dog heads to the surgical suite.

Here are some to consider:

What type of anesthesia do you anticipate my dog will have?

Depending on your dog and the procedure, there is considerable variation in what anesthesia a vet will use. Basically, there are two types: injectable and inhalant. Injectable anesthetics, also called induction agents, are used to get the dog unconscious, often in preparation for an inhalant anesthesia.

Vets have many choices in injectable anesthesia. One combination of drugs, Ketamine and Valium, has gotten a bad rap because in the past high doses given to cats led to unpleasant behavioral reactions and hypersalivation. But when used to induce anesthesia in premedicated dogs, it’s given at much lower doses, and those side effects are not common. Propofol is among the most expensive of the injectables, but is valued for its rapid onset of action and quick recovery period.

While some specific cases might warrant using injectables only, it can be difficult for a vet to gauge depth of anesthesia, and maintaining a constant level of unconsciousness is more challenging. As a result, once the injectable has been given and the dog is unconscious, many vets administer inhalantion anesthetics. Two of the newer gases, Isoflurane and Sevoflurane, are considered equally safe and under most circumstances are equally fast acting, though the latter is currently more expensive.

Halophane is an older gas anesthetic that some practices still use. It has a little bit less of a margin of safety in terms of cardiovascular function, experts say, and has more of an impact on the liver than the newer inhalants.

Finally, some vets "mask down" their patients – that is, give them inhalant anesthesia only. This has drawbacks, too, as it is very stressful on the dog and there is an extended period of time when the dog is not under the vet’s control.

What type of monitoring do you generally do for this kind of surgery?

Most veterinary anesthesiologists agree that a vet should have equipment for tracking blood pressure, heart rate and rhythm, and oxygen saturation in the blood. But just as important are another set of eyes and hands to monitor respiratory rate and gum color, and notice subtle changes well before the machinery does. Ask if the person monitoring is a certified vet tech, or if they have done any continuing education or training specific to anesthesia. If your dog is very sick or facing a complicated procedure, you might inquire if there a vet on staff who is specially trained in anesthesia and is a diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Anesthesiologists.

Do you routinely give intravenous fluids to your patients while under anesthesia?

An intravenous catheter is helpful during surgery because it provides quick access to the bloodstream in case of an emergency. But it also keeps the dog hydrated – a concern when dogs have been fasted before procedures.

Do you know about this breed’s difficulty with certain drugs?

Sighthounds like Greyhounds and Whippets have a lesser ability to metabolize barbiturates, which were once widely used as induction agents. Boxers have also demonstrated a reaction to Acepromazine, a tranquilizer commonly used to calm a dog before the induction agent is given. When give large doses intravenously, some Boxers will collapse and faint impeding blood flow, creating a potentially fatal situation.

What kind of recovery can I expect?

In most dogs, there will be some drowsiness or lack of coordination, especially if the veterinarian has administered medication to control pain. But if your dog is still extremely sedate after, say, 12 hours, or doesn’t rouse when petted, that could be an indication that he is not metabolizing the medication as fast as he should. Other warning signs include vocalizing, difficulty breathing and vomiting.

Avoiding Summer Hazards

Along with opportunity for fun and frolic, summer weather comes with its own share of dangers and caveats. As with most things, a dollop of prevention can save you plenty of heartache. And of course, in any health emergency, get to a vet immediately.

Heat safety. Heat stroke is a serious threat to dogs, even those that might be accustomed to steamy climes. Never, ever leave a dog in a car for any length of time, and remember that just walking around at high noon can mean sudden death for snub-nosed breeds such as pugs and bulldogs, which simply cannot tolerate extreme heat.

Heat stroke can happen suddenly. To cool a sun-stroked dog, get him into the shade, soak him with water (not cold or iced - regular hose water is best), and provide a breeze, such as a fan. As for panting, don't discourage it: It's the canine air-conditioning system, and no matter how hard or labored it is, it means your dog is working to expel heat from his body.

Swimming safety. Dogs aren't ducks --they have to learn to swim just like the rest of us. A young puppy or any dog that has never taken the plunge can easily fall into a swimming pool or pond - and never get out. Make sure your pool area is fenced, and consider adding a ramp as an emergency exit.

And even dogs that are strong swimmers can get into trouble if human help is unavailable: Several years ago, pop star Pink was devastated when her swim-happy bulldog Elvis (he had been a gift from Lisa Marie Presley), drowned in the swimming pool of her Los Angeles mansion after she went out for an hour or so to run errands.

Toxic chemicals. Just as much of a threat as swimming pools are the chemicals that are used to clean and filter them. Curiosity didn’t kill only the cat: Take the time to place any life-threatening chemicals – including radiator and windshield-wiper fluids - on a high shelf or in a secure cabinet.

Also take precautions when weed-fighting chemicals are applied to your garden. If you apply herbicides, keep your dogs out of the yard dogs until the liquid has dried; if you are using granules, make that several hours. If your dog does track through before then, try a bath with a hand-washing liquid such as Dawn. which will strip oils from the coat.

Pesticides used to kill rodents and insects such as grubs, fleas and ticks are even more toxic to dogs. Again, wait until they have dried or the dust has settled before allowing your dogs to have access. Be particularly careful of slug and snail baits - dog are attracted to their smell and will eat them. Ditto for systemic rose products, which are worked into the soil; the insecticide is often mixed with an organic-based fertilizer, which can attract nosy canines. The best advice of all: Look into organic gardening. A few dandelions and weeds are a small price to pay for peace of mind.

Parasites and infectious diseases. Summer ushers in a host of creepy-crawlies, from mosquitoes to fleas and ticks. Be sure to stay current on your dog’s heartworm medication (especially in warm-weather climates where it is endemic) and flea-and-tick preventatives. Ticks not only carry Lyme disease, but also Ehrlichia and Rocky Mountain spotted fever, which are transmissible to people as well. A bacterial disease that becomes a concern in warmer weather is leptospirosis, which is usually transmitted in standing water such as puddles and ponds. Consult with your vet to weigh the pros and cons of vaccinating for this disease, which is often fatal unless treated early.

Home-improvement products. Warm weather brings out the Bob Vila in all of us, but many glues and solvents can be deadly.

Turpentine, kerosene, paint thinner and wood strippers are not only highly caustic, but they can be aspirated and get into lung tissue very easily - with fatal results. As with pesticides and insecticides, keep these products in cabinets and off the ground. And don’t get a false sense of security from tightly sealed cans and bottles: Dogs can puncture and crush them easily. A less-obvious danger are expandable wood glues. They will swell up to literally fill the dog's stomach, and surgery is required to peel the stomach off the hardened blob.

Great escapes. With the arrival of summer guests and outdoor get-togethers, this time of year provides more opportunities than ever for dogs to go on the lam. To reduce the chance of your dog slipping out, install springs on all gates, so they can’t be left ajar. Also work on teaching the "wait" command, and use it before your dog goes out any door; such conditioning just might prevent her from bolting if she gets the chance.

In the event your dog does get out, be sure he is wearing a collar with identification tags, and consider microchipping.